Yesterday, I watched surfers from the beach. Today, I borrowed a boogie board, a pair of flippers and got out there among them. The line up of patient wave riders gently staggered among the breaking waves was like a silent brotherhood. Everyone was sitting on their boards, looking toward the open ocean, silently watching for the swell that was going to break in just the right spot for them to paddle into it, pop up onto their feet and ride it for a thrilling minute. A head nod or smile was all that passed as a greeting.
The photographer and I were on boogie boards. He and his huge underwater camera and me just bobbing up and down out there, then, POP! A huge turtle stuck its head out of the water and looked at me, then it was gone.
I turned around and yelled at my husband and girlfriend, “Hey! I just saw a turtle head! Wahoo!” Some of the surfers looked at each other and smiled.
I paddled into a set of waves that took me almost all the way in. It was such a nice long ride, me gliding along on my belly, that I got confident and tried to veer into the wave but it spit me out like a stray piece of tobacco. I got back on the board and caught the one right behind it and rode it to the shore. After I pulled my flippers off, I sat in the black sand
and thought about that turtle head.
I know it was connected to a really big turtle.